The Nanu Oya to Ella train is one of the world's great rail journeys. Here's how to enjoy it properly.
You have seen the photographs — travelers hanging out of blue-painted train doors as tea gardens roll past. What the photographs don't tell you is how much difference a small amount of planning makes to that journey.
The Best Stretch of Track
The most photogenic stretch runs from Nanu Oya (the station for Nuwara Eliya) to Ella, a leisurely three-and-a-half hour ride through the finest scenery of the hill country. We reserve second-class seats on the left-hand side in the direction of travel — this gives you the best light and the widest views across the tea estates and Nine Arches valley.
Choosing Your Class
First-class observation carriages exist but are often stuffy and the windows can be sealed shut; second-class is more atmospheric, with windows that open and a genuine sense of occasion. Unreserved third-class carriages are best avoided on this route — they fill quickly and standing for three hours is no way to enjoy the view.
Booking Ahead
Book well in advance. Reserved seats sell out four to six weeks ahead in peak season, and unreserved carriages are best avoided. We handle the booking, coordinate a driver ahead to meet you at Ella with your luggage, and time the transfer so you never lose a moment of your itinerary.
The Reverse Direction
One quiet tip: the reverse direction (Ella to Nanu Oya) is equally beautiful, less crowded, and takes you towards a fine sunset over the tea country. If your route allows, we sometimes recommend it — particularly for travelers who prefer a quieter carriage and a later start to the day.
What to Bring
- Layers — the highlands are cool, especially with the windows open
- A window seat reservation, confirmed in writing
- A small picnic, since the pantry car is charming but reliably unreliable
- A camera with a reasonably fast shutter for the tunnels and bridges
- Patience — delays of thirty minutes to an hour are common and part of the charm
Whichever direction and class you choose, the highland train rewards travelers who treat it as an experience in itself rather than simply a transfer between two hotels. Building in a full unhurried day around it, rather than squeezing it between other activities, is the single best way to enjoy it.
